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DESIGNERS
By Chinazam Ikechi-Uko
The address read 22 Avenue Montaigne, Paris, the LVMH Group headquarters and some of the biggest names in fashion are pacing with excitement at the scene. It is the 27th of February, and today is the showroom for the semi-finalists of the LVMH Prize for young designers. No one knew it then but this would mark the last unrestricted fashion event of 2020 and the first year an African woman would win the prize.
“If you are a young designer, the LVMH prize is pretty much like the holy grail of fashion prizes. It is where you wanna be, it is where you wanna win, you meet all the people that you need to meet in fashion to make it.” -Gigi Hadid.
2020 was not the first year for an African to win the LVMH Prize; that record was set by the South African designer, Thebe Magugu the previous year. Africans are also staples on the semi-finalists list; Orange Culture, Tokyo James, and Lagos Space Programme are a few of the names that have had the honour. However, 2020 was the first time African women emerged at the top.
Due to the colossal effects of the pandemic, the LVMH prize was awarded to the 8 finalists of the 2020 edition. South African designer, Sindiso Khumalo along with Indian-Nigerian designer, Ahluwalia were officially among the winners of the 7th edition of the LVMH prize for young designers, making them the first African women to win.
Four years later, international Fashion Week’s calendars are spotting these top African designers with A-list clientele. Here are the African designers who rocked the fashion industry with their Fall Winter 2024 (FW24) collection:
To many AGBOBLY is a semi-finalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize but to Togelese designer, Jacques Agbobly, it is a design studio that aims to highlight Black and immigrant narratives alongside cultural contributions through a global-focused lens. AGBOBLY is breaking gender binaries in fashion by integrating Black history and artisan traditions. AGBOBLY celebrates uniqueness and creativity through the use of vibrant colours, playful designs, and materials that pay homage to his Togolese culture and history, all while evoking a sense of optimism and joy.
His FW24 collection at New York Fashion Week was no different from the brand’s ethos. The collection titled “Bienvenue à Bord” features a series of menswear and womenswear attires. From bustle skirts to knitwear, the AGBOBLY debut delivered.
Tolu Coker broke High fashion Twitter when her AW24 collection photos from London Fashion Week hit the internet. The Nigerian designer reclaimed leather tailoring by upcycling it and introduced a new type of UGG shoes- the UGG boots. The knee-high reconstructed UGGs were an instant hit but the collection itself was jaw-dropping. Tolu Coker has been making waves for her sustainable designs and her latest line which she called “Broken English” a reference to the slang for a non-standard version of English, sometimes referred to as pidgin. As the collection featured typical British silhouettes, however, it did this in an upcycled manner… a non-standard manner. She incorporated Nigerian accessories such as cowries and shekere; she was equally inspired by Ghanaian street style.
Model holding a Shekere.
A few weeks after the NYFW on the opposite side of the Atlantic Ocean, South African label, MAXHOSA stormed the Paris Fashion Week with its AW24 collection titled “My Conviction”. The creative direction of MAXHOSA is led by Laduma Ngxokolo who takes inspiration from Xhosa aesthetics and translates them into modern, high-end clothing. The collection reinterprets traditional Xhosa beadwork patterns and motifs. The alluring colours and patterns made the brand stand out.
ABIGAIL AJOBI decided to take on London with its ANTI-MUSE 2 collection. The ANTI-MUSE collection made its debut last year at the Heineken Lagos Fashion Week. However, there were several new designs added to the collection for its London Fashion Week showcase, hence, this is the 2.0. The collection included t-shirts that were sold exclusively on-site, the front of the t-shirts had photographs by Abigail Ajobi at its centre. The collection reintroduced its tie and dye pieces, along with its partially dyed denim pieces from the first ANTI-MUSE collection. The Nigerian designer wanted the set of the fashion show to have a Lagos vibe so the space was decorated with sand and faux palm trees.
Last year, the LVMH alumnus withdrew from his scheduled fashion show due to the passing of a loved one. So it was exhilarating to see him back on his feet and his latest collection titled “Expansion”. In the city of Milan, the Nigerian designer teamed up with Yusuf Aina of Retro Africa to create a stage set that accentuated his collection. At Palazzo Visconti Di Modrone, Tokyo James enlisted the help of the Retro Africa team to bring his vision to life as Tokyo wanted to showcase what it means to be from their part of the world. The set was titled “Domain Expansion”, a reference to the most supreme technique in the Japanese anime, Jujutsu Kaisen. It involves expanding one’s innate domain with energy while using a barrier to construct it inside a separate space, so everyone in the space is subjected to the conditions of the domain.
So everyone in the 17th century Palazzo Visconti Di Mondrone was in Tokyo’s domain and this represented his world, as he aimed to challenge the traditional stereotype about the styles of art and fashion in Nigeria. The collection used traditional beads such as white Benin beads and stone Benin beads for jewellery; hand-beaded pants and bags were a part of the garment lineup.
The Indian-Nigeria designer who won the hearts of the fashion world in 2020 with its denim jackets which were made of repurposed Levi’s, has managed to stay independent while breaking boundaries.
Due to its focus on sustainability and repurposing, all Ahluwalia pieces are unique. It unveiled its latest collection in London; “Reveries” is inspired by its designer, Priya Ahluwalia’s trip of recalled wonder. In an Instagram statement, the brand said, “Delving into an imagined world inspired by old Indian and Nigerian folklore and fairytales, deities and characters along with gods and symbols are a genesis for the collection. The recurring elements found in their pages including decorative trees, birds and moon and crown motifs are incorporated into merino wool and felted yarn knitwear and recycled viscose and organic pique separates at the heart this season.” With this collection, the brand returned with its repurposed Levi’s in the form of dresses along with an array of prints and motifs on its men’s and women’s wear.
Ever the non-conformist, Mowalola took to the internet to unveil her latest banger, a white transparent body-hugging tank top with the words “WET” written across its bust. The mini launch is known as the WET tank and in true Mowalola fashion, the tank has already created a social media buzz, but this time it is because it has become an Instagram favourite.
In 2021, on the 28th of November, the world mourned the loss of a genius, a legend in the fashion world, Virgil Abloh. He was the founder and creative director of the renowned High Street brand, Off White. In the summer of 2022, it was announced that Sierra Leonean designer and Dazed’s editor-in-chief, Ibrahim Kamara will succeed as the creative director of Off-White. Almost two years later, Ibrahim Kamara is still running strong and its FW24 collection “BLACK BY POPULAR DEMAND” is evidence. The collection embraced colour and print with outfits described as “Modern and yet rooted in a primal urge.” It also introduced a new line of trainers called “The Ball Sneakers” at its Paris Fashion Week show.
The Ball Sneakers by Off White
Fashion Week was filled with several surprises; Black Sheriff kicked off his modelling career by walking for Off White and Labrum London. Another Parisian surprise was Tyler Okonma, popularly known as Tyler The Creator created a capsule collection for Louis Vuitton. In 2021, in an interview with Fast Company, Tyler expressed embracing his Igbo identity despite growing up in the USA. The collection featured a range of items including shoes, bags, trunks, hoodies, cardigans and many more. Several pieces of the collection incorporated a hand-drawn LV monogram. Tyler made it clear that his favourite piece is the chessboard. “I’ve been making clothes since I was 13.” This is not Tyler’s first venture in the industry as he owns a brand, Golf Wang.
Tyler Okonma X Louis Vuitton
Lagos Space Programme partnered up with Alara to debut its FW24 at Paris Fashion Week. The collection aimed to expand the visual reference of what is African design. “Invitation To Ojude Oba”, the line was made of deconstructed and re-imagined Yoruba garments with references to the typical British menswear. The inspiration is drawn from the Ojude Oba festival in Southwestern Nigeria which celebrates the Yoruba people of Ijebu-Ode. “This collection seamlessly melds British and Nigerian heritage, reflecting the designer’s journey exploring and embracing cultural landscapes.” Lagos Space Programme’s Instagram details the materials, inspirations and journey of the brand in making this project.
Fashion Week comes twice a year so we can’t wait to see what these designers have in store for their Spring Summer collections.
